X-Authentication-Warning: delorie.com: mail set sender to geda-user-bounces using -f X-Recipient: geda-user AT delorie DOT com X-Virus-Scanned: Debian amavisd-new at mail.linetec.nl Message-ID: <66c88bcb-820c-9a1d-1698-d0b36f32e3f3@linetec.nl> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2022 13:15:47 +0200 MIME-Version: 1.0 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:91.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/91.11.0 To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Content-Language: en-US From: "Richard Rasker (rasker AT linetec DOT nl) [via geda-user AT delorie DOT com]" Subject: [geda-user] [OT] Solder paste woes Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Reply-To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Hello, My apologies for this off-topic question, as this has not much to do with gEDA - but I could do with some expert advice on PCB assembly for reflow, and perhaps some people here have good ideas. I've been working with SMD reflow technology for many years now, and very step of the process goes smooth except one: applying solder paste for small-pitch components. My main problem is that even after hundreds of PCB's, the result is unpredictable. Only 2 out of every 10 PCB's have a good crisp result, like this: http://www.linetec.nl/electronics/paste_crisp.jpg The other PCB's often look like this: http://www.linetec.nl/electronics/paste_mess.jpg So applying paste is rather a hit-and-miss affair, and it sometimes takes half a dozen attempts to get one PCB right. This is my set-up and work procedure: * I only use flash gold finished PCB's (the tinned ones have bumpy pads, hugely increasing the error rate). * For positioning of the PCB's, I use an L-shaped piece of PCB taped down with masking tape. * The SMD stencil is stainless steel, 100 microns thick, taped into position along the bottom edge and at a top corner. * The wiper is also stainless steel, but of course rather thicker. * I apply the paste slowly with the wiper at an angle of ~30° relative to the horizontal, with small sideways movements in addition to the main movement downwards. * I use moderate force -- difficult to estimate, but I'd say between 500 and 800 grams, so roughly 1 - 1.5 pounds. * After each single paste application, I wipe the underside of the stencil with an acetone cloth, to prevent any paste on the underside getting squished, causing shorts etcetera. Now admittedly, those 'shorted' pads often turn out OK due to the solder's high surface tension and tendency to collect at the metal parts of the components, but I still get rather a lot (ca. 1 in 5) of PCB's with nasty shorts, especially underneath those QFN housings. There is of course also the problem of the solder paste degrading and getting tougher and 'dryer' over time; however, that is not the problem here. If anything, fresh solder paste is more runny and thus tends to short out between pads faster. So the question is if someone has any tips to improve the process, or maybe point out what I'm doing wrong. (Yes, of course I can have a PCB house do the assembly, but that typically costs > $1000 per run, and that is not always an option.) Thanks in advance, Richard