X-Authentication-Warning: delorie.com: mail set sender to geda-user-bounces using -f X-Recipient: geda-user AT delorie DOT com DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:sender:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject :from:to:content-type; bh=3qkYmVAu55NXdADuULdVSzfBVIeKuLpHxN86NJg9/Lo=; b=CSv8+cQojvQ0gjVqFxZpwJNvk8SyeJaLNpZ4WZX1EnAWhQoZkm49xzOR35O/O83hz+ 6XLk57mJziBkIN4B+SIoHUHlXmLbBXjr/S7thH2rmFFBeJ8Or9ScgKrdUhRqxb+jh7kr b6thtUHswSOk7e3Wcd1BtrRTYSpyb615OG2wjPJ1NWiAIEXPdJ1feAeDYsxVN5REwWH5 k5y0Hm+3KSAramnfmsFzNRrFPGcMlvHABej7K8U8dbwmyGJu2BJ4XV7jTKU1N0BaSgFW s8vg1neF8RhL2P/roKgywve9Cgj+bYcWnUI7AdVfz+0dLMSjr78nRdxGl2WJ/4THGLvW YOIw== MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Received: by 10.58.39.97 with SMTP id o1mr8875367vek.15.1381786533699; Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:35:33 -0700 (PDT) Sender: silicon DOT on DOT inspiration AT gmail DOT com In-Reply-To: <CALSZ9gpA+F79JM3_-HZT70=oS5uU=kQpR20PMwB6YtxcJUB8Tw@mail.gmail.com> References: <CALSZ9gpA+F79JM3_-HZT70=oS5uU=kQpR20PMwB6YtxcJUB8Tw AT mail DOT gmail DOT com> Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 08:35:33 +1100 X-Google-Sender-Auth: vnOjbKjTdxDKMTgnsEWMbkeAQWk Message-ID: <CAKakQcf1fnguxLmrPp8v=ErQZMdtq-i1Qk+m2qWwRFso0yJLaw@mail.gmail.com> Subject: Re: [geda-user] Cheap solder paste source? From: Stephen Ecob <stephen DOT ecob AT sioi DOT com DOT au> To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=089e011834d87f276b04e8ba3f90 Reply-To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Errors-To: nobody AT delorie DOT com X-Mailing-List: geda-user AT delorie DOT com X-Unsubscribes-To: listserv AT delorie DOT com Precedence: bulk --089e011834d87f276b04e8ba3f90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Be careful ! I bought some cheap Chinese "sparkle paste" from fleabay that claimed to be 63/37 tin lead solder paste. Having tested it, I have developed a theory of how they make it: 1. Start with a stack of industrial waste PCBs or floor sweepings from a desoldering shop 2. Grind into a fine powder 3. Separate out the densest 30% of the powder by rinsing / centrifuging 4. Mix with toothpaste until it looks about right 5. sell on fleabay This stuff doesn't melt cleanly, it's more like half melting / half burning until you are left with a molten slag with some silvery metallic bits mixed in with lots of smouldering grey ash (presumably the remnants of the fibreglass parts of the PCBs). Complete junk. For real work I use freshly purchased solder paste from a good brand. I prefer 63/37 tin lead and only use RoHS if I must. Good paste is worth the high price when you see just how forgiving it can be - I'm amazed at how often I can accidentally smear the paste during application but still end up with beautiful short free solder joints. On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 7:00 AM, Rob Butts <r DOT butts2 AT gmail DOT com> wrote: > For those who use solder paste I'm looking for a cheap solder paste that > contains lead. > > Thanks > -- Stephen Ecob Silicon On Inspiration Sydney Australia www.sioi.com.au --089e011834d87f276b04e8ba3f90 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful !<div style><br></div><div style>I bought some = cheap Chinese "sparkle paste" from fleabay that claimed to be 63/= 37 tin lead solder paste.</div><div style>Having tested it, I have develope= d a theory of how they make it:</div> <div style><br></div><div style>1. Start with a stack of industrial waste P= CBs or floor sweepings from a desoldering shop</div><div style>2. Grind int= o a fine powder</div><div style>3. Separate out the densest 30% of the powd= er by rinsing / centrifuging</div> <div style>4. Mix with toothpaste until it looks about right</div><div styl= e>5. sell on fleabay</div><div style><br></div><div style>This stuff doesn&= #39;t melt cleanly, it's more like half melting / half burning until yo= u are left with a molten slag with some silvery metallic bits mixed in with= lots of smouldering grey ash (presumably the remnants of the fibreglass pa= rts of the PCBs).</div> <div style><br></div><div style>Complete junk.</div><div style><br></div><d= iv style>For real work I use freshly purchased solder paste from a good bra= nd. =A0I prefer 63/37 tin lead and only use RoHS if I must.</div><div style= > <br></div><div style>Good paste is worth the high price when you see just h= ow forgiving it can be - I'm amazed at how often I can accidentally sme= ar the paste during application but still end up with beautiful short free = solder joints.</div> <div style><br></div><div style><br></div><div style><br></div></div><div c= lass=3D"gmail_extra"><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 15, 201= 3 at 7:00 AM, Rob Butts <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:r DOT butts2 AT gm= ail.com" target=3D"_blank">r DOT butts2 AT gmail DOT com</a>></span> wrote:<br> <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p= x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>For those who use sold= er paste I'm looking for a cheap solder paste that contains lead.</div>= <div> =A0</div><div>Thanks</div></div> </blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br>Stephen Ecob= <br>Silicon On Inspiration<br>Sydney Australia<br><a href=3D"http://www.sio= i.com.au" target=3D"_blank">www.sioi.com.au</a><br> </div> --089e011834d87f276b04e8ba3f90--