X-Authentication-Warning: delorie.com: mail set sender to geda-user-bounces using -f X-Recipient: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v1084) Subject: Re: [geda-user] Soldering Station suggestions From: Dave Curtis In-Reply-To: Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2013 17:07:33 -0700 Message-Id: <3A507ADA-1BCF-4393-BCCC-93B044B44AFA@sonic.net> References: <201310132204 DOT r9DM4MM1014954 AT envy DOT delorie DOT com> To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.1084) X-Sonic-C-UUID: A0B002CA-3464-11E3-BAC9-059128DB7323 X-Sonic-M-UUID: A0B7FAB6-3464-11E3-BAC9-059128DB7323 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by delorie.com id r9E07cfg003478 Reply-To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Errors-To: nobody AT delorie DOT com X-Mailing-List: geda-user AT delorie DOT com X-Unsubscribes-To: listserv AT delorie DOT com Precedence: bulk I've done both toaster-oven and hot plate soldering. Both work well. A $20 toaster oven is good enough. I have a reflow controller -- a friend uses a thermocouple wire and a solid-state relay connected via an FTDI serial cable and gets good results. My current hot-plate set up is a $20 kitchen hot plate, and a Fluke non-contact IR thermometer. Yes, the Fluke costs a few dollars, but I had it anyway. The hot plate thermostat cycles across about a 30C range, pretty wide. What I do is set it so the high end where the thermostat kicks out is just below reflow temperature. Set the board on the hot plate for 60 or so seconds for "heat soak", then use a puff of hot air over the components to get them to reflow -- works great. In either case, the key to success is getting a tiny enough amount of solder on the pad. I'm currently using a paste dispenser picked up cheap/used off flea-bay. -dave On Oct 13, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Britton Kerin wrote: > > I recently got around to trying solder paste and a toaster oven and I'm frankly amazed > how well it works, the boards come out looking like a pro prototype shop made them. > Pcbbool and probably others give a free stainless steel stencil now so unless your photo etching your own PCBs I don't see any reason not to bake your boards. > > I do use a leaded solder paste, I've heard that the lead-free ones can be a bit too high-temp for toaster ovens. I use a temperature indicator crayon, though > I'm not sure I really need it since I also just put a little blob of paste on an empty > spot on the board and watch for it to ball up, then give it a little extra cooking and call it > good :) > > Britton > > > On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Rob Butts wrote: > Thanks! > > I decided to go with a combo iron/hot air. After watching a few videos I think it might be worth trying hot air; especially where I'm about to get into 0.5mm pitch. It looks easy (hopefully I didn't curse it). > > Now for cheap good soldering paste. > > > On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 6:04 PM, DJ Delorie wrote: > > I use a Metcal MX500, which is a step up from the SP200, but only > because I got it cheap on eBay :-) > > I have a couple of different tips and handpieces for it, and can do > down to 01005 size. > >