X-Authentication-Warning: delorie.com: mail set sender to geda-user-bounces using -f X-Recipient: geda-user AT delorie DOT com DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=3dKgtaYMrg3In+GCB1+ArDbwjYXEGQMOzElyrDbKdHY=; b=bXMKszzM/esWPLN0zxR7OH8tDrq9Hvs4/5J8ueckxW61VyEgET9tExhvOJu9FhpTvI IZD5M7JX47V1lTo6Yni+nQW6d9d+Q8pIeNC7EzIqqqRY5sVpwHAc2iiPx6TQ8tjZOSWj 1KvlABE6afF8E7em0NKadwCR/iHE5ZmKtWyyWbciqjvOLlK5xUTpc9PHer7mZctMvvdq lq18KPrJOthKfQbdI8qLk7b3JxVeBvo+VZu6vJEBM9wxY0YcCIjgFLp5CkuYTa/y8y9v Oyd7ZlJxZyi9buXX4DoFkHkzjqByf3GO1CptHn6rTj9794k1oB/gPCiXTayQ9gzZ7tkF 7l0g== MIME-Version: 1.0 In-Reply-To: <20120523155906.6fcf697e@rainbird> References: <20120523155906 DOT 6fcf697e AT rainbird> Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 11:37:01 -0400 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [geda-user] 6 Pin, 0.1" Pitch, Male, Panel Mount Connector From: Rob Butts To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=0015175cf794e9bb9d04c0ca051f Reply-To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com Errors-To: nobody AT delorie DOT com X-Mailing-List: geda-user AT delorie DOT com X-Unsubscribes-To: listserv AT delorie DOT com Precedence: bulk --0015175cf794e9bb9d04c0ca051f Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Thanks everyone! My solution is to get a shrowded or housed panel connector and use a female to male adapter to mate to the programmer/debugger. On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 3:59 PM, Vanessa Ezekowitz < vanessaezekowitz AT gmail DOT com> wrote: > On Wed, 23 May 2012 13:30:28 -0400 > Rob Butts wrote: > > > Yes, but I want to be able to mount it in a box so that only the pins are > > coming out of the box. > > I think we're all a bit unclear what you want - maybe you could draw an > example picture and attach it? > > As Bdale mentioned, a right-angle header strip that is exposed through a > hole in your project's casing is a possibility; indeed I could swear I've > seen right-angle header strips with pins so long that, if mounted close to > the edge of the board, would stick out of the case far enough to fit a > connector onto the ends without it touching the case (assuming the pins > stick out through little individual holes . > > That said, I don't think you'll really want the pins to stick out like > that in the long run. Not only are they at risk of being damaged or broken > off from bumping into something (say, when you move your project, or put it > away when it isn't in use), and those pins could in turn damage something > else, including your hands. I'm sure we've all had the experience of > finding some random through-hole component or row of pins the hard way. > > It sounds like you want to be able to reach these pins easily e.g. for > hacking purposes, so I would suggest one of three options (roughly in order > of preference): > > 1. Use a shrouded male right angle header, and mount it so that the ends > of the pins sit just under the surface of your project's casing. If you > choose a common size, it's easy to find pre-made cables with appropriate > matching connectors (you may already have such in your junk box). Just > chop off one end of said cable and hook the wires to whatever. > > 2. Work a 0.156" male card edge into your board layout, designed so that > you can plug a female edge connector into/onto it. Card edge connectors of > that pitch are big and easy to handle, especially if you have large hands > or poor coordination (like me), and it's quite easy to solder wires onto > the terminating pins. > > 3. Do the same thing, but using a 0.1" pitch connector. These are less > common, for some reason, and are a little less easy to handle due to their > smaller size, but they're otherwise as flexible as the 0.156" size. > > 4. Use a right-angle female header. No need for a mating connector here > initially - you can just jam wires or individual male pins into it as > needed. > > Any of these, if placed correctly, would also allow your project to accept > a peripheral mounted directly against it, sidecar style, if it should come > to that. > > -- > "There are some things in life worth obsessing over. Most > things aren't, and when you learn that, life improves." > http://digitalaudioconcepts.com > Vanessa Ezekowitz > > --0015175cf794e9bb9d04c0ca051f Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks everyone!
=A0
My solution is to get a shrow= ded or housed panel connector and use a female to male adapter to mate to t= he programmer/debugger.

On Wed, May= 23, 2012 at 3:59 PM, Vanessa Ezekowitz <vanessaezekowitz AT gmail DOT c= om> wrote:
On Wed, 23 May 2012 13:30:28 -0400
Rob Butts <r DOT butts2 AT gmail DOT com> wrote:

> Yes, but I want to be able to mount it in a box so that only the pins = are
> coming out of the box.

I think we're all a bit unclear what you want - maybe you could d= raw an example picture and attach it?

As Bdale mentioned, a right-angle header strip that is exposed through a ho= le in your project's casing is a possibility; indeed I could swear I= 9;ve seen right-angle header strips with pins so long that, if mounted clos= e to the edge of the board, would stick out of the case far enough to fit a= connector onto the ends without it touching the case (assuming the pins st= ick out through little individual holes .

That said, I don't think you'll really want the pins to stick out l= ike that in the long run. =A0Not only are they at risk of being damaged or = broken off from bumping into something (say, when you move your project, or= put it away when it isn't in use), and those pins could in turn damage= something else, including your hands. =A0I'm sure we've all had th= e experience of finding some random through-hole component or row of pins t= he hard way.

It sounds like you want to be able to reach these pins easily e.g. for hack= ing purposes, so I would suggest one of three options (roughly in order of = preference):

1. Use a shrouded male right angle header, and mount it so that the ends of= the pins sit just under the surface of your project's casing. =A0If yo= u choose a common size, it's easy to find pre-made cables with appropri= ate matching connectors (you may already have such in your junk box). =A0Ju= st chop off one end of said cable and hook the wires to whatever.

2. Work a 0.156" male card edge into your board layout, designed so th= at you can plug a female edge connector into/onto it. =A0Card edge connecto= rs of that pitch are big and easy to handle, especially if you have large h= ands or poor coordination (like me), and it's quite easy to solder wire= s onto the terminating pins.

3. Do the same thing, but using a 0.1" pitch connector. =A0These are l= ess common, for some reason, and are a little less easy to handle due to th= eir smaller size, but they're otherwise as flexible as the 0.156" = size.

4. Use a right-angle female header. No need for a mating connector here ini= tially - you can just jam wires or individual male pins into it as needed.<= br>
Any of these, if placed correctly, would also allow your project to accept = a peripheral mounted directly against it, sidecar style, if it should come = to that.

--
"There are some things in life worth obsessing over. =A0Most
things aren't, and when you learn that, life improves."
http://digita= laudioconcepts.com
Vanessa Ezekowitz <vanessa= ezekowitz AT gmail DOT com>


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