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Subject: | Re: [geda-user] DIY PCBs |
To: | geda-user AT delorie DOT com |
References: | <20170617081144 DOT 16928 DOT qmail AT rahul DOT net> |
<efa75d25-7cfd-49a8-cec5-7522a80ee010 AT ecosensory DOT com> | |
<20170618153703 DOT D607D801F77A AT turkos DOT aspodata DOT se> | |
From: | "John Griessen (john AT ecosensory DOT com) [via geda-user AT delorie DOT com]" <geda-user AT delorie DOT com> |
Message-ID: | <c3052afe-ceff-c958-c1c4-187f4e2b663a@ecosensory.com> |
Date: | Sun, 18 Jun 2017 16:52:35 -0500 |
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On 06/18/2017 10:37 AM, karl AT aspodata DOT se wrote: > I usually use natriumperoxidisulfate for etching, would there be any > advantage to use H2O2/HCl instead ? The advantage I like for middle of the road 10 mils line and space, (not attempting 6 or 4 mils), is that the CuCl2 etchant is easily neutralized so it is not an environment problem. When you add NaOH to make it neutral, the copper precipitates out as oxide dust that is heavy, so easy to separate out of the bottom of a pan. The water is slightly salty with NaCl after neutralizing, but OK to pour on the ground without killing plants. I've not found any recycler that buys copper oxide dust, but we have a household disposal service by the city that will accept things as long as they are not industrial output. It can be turned back to copper by heating in a retort with charcoal and no oxygen... but I gave that kind of gas fired foundry work up in '02. Maybe later with a microwave absorbing crucible in a 7X microwave, as in the "microwave steel" method...
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