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Date: | Wed, 2 Apr 2014 09:38:04 -0700 |
Message-ID: | <CAC4O8c9F0VYCp4y2E-DVAMhE-gXE1FO7u9QsXOYknJX7JFy2Rw@mail.gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: [geda-user] printing from PCB |
From: | Britton Kerin <britton DOT kerin AT gmail DOT com> |
To: | geda-user AT delorie DOT com |
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On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 5:07 AM, Jason White <whitewaterssoftwareinfo AT gmail DOT com> wrote: > Building your own boards, ay? > > I know this isn't directly related to your question but I always exported a > 1000 dpi monochrome PNG file for each layer and loaded it into GIMP or > another photo manipulation program. From there I could panelize my design > (tile it), add descriptive headers such as "THIS SIDE UP" and print it with > a supposed .001" accuracy. At 1000dip the resolution of the image in pixels > correlated directly to how many thousands of an inch wide it was supposed to > be, simplifying the task of recognizing how big or small a design really > was. > > One thing I found was that the large commercial printers such as the ones > Staples or OfficMax typically have, print *far* superior masks (transparency > slides) than anything I could achieve at home with a consumer laser printer. > If you are doing photo-lithography (the photo transfer method) I would > strongly recommend getting a pdf of the mask printed off by them for a buck > or two. Typically home printed transparencies have to be doubled up for > additional opacity, whereas theirs did not. I would advise not using transparencies, but instead using tracing paper. Its UV permeable and laser printers can print to it well. I could never get transparencies to work at all from my home laser, they melt the toner doesn't stick well etc. Britton
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