Mail Archives: geda-user/2014/04/02/10:54:58
I used to tape squares of transparency film to sheets of normal paper,
I would print once on normal paper to get where is was going to print.
Then I would cut a square slightly larger than the what was printed
onto the paper and tape the leading edge so that it was over what was
printed. I would then place that piece of paper with the piece of
transparency taped onto it back into the paper tray and print again.
Viola! No more wasted film. I would recommend trying.
Once I got the process down I realized that a little bit of waste goes
a long ways towards making life easier and the transfer more reliable.
On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 8:57 AM, Richard Bown <richard AT g8jvm DOT com> wrote:
> On Wed, 2 Apr 2014 08:07:24 -0400
> Jason White <whitewaterssoftwareinfo AT gmail DOT com> wrote:
>
>> Building your own boards, ay?
>>
>> I know this isn't directly related to your question but I always
>> exported a 1000 dpi monochrome PNG file for each layer and loaded it
>> into GIMP or another photo manipulation program. From there I could
>> panelize my design (tile it), add descriptive headers such as "THIS
>> SIDE UP" and print it with a supposed .001" accuracy. At 1000dip the
>> resolution of the image in pixels correlated directly to how many
>> thousands of an inch wide it was supposed to be, simplifying the task
>> of recognizing how big or small a design really was.
>>
>> One thing I found was that the large commercial printers such as the
>> ones Staples or OfficMax typically have, print *far* superior masks
>> (transparency slides) than anything I could achieve at home with a
>> consumer laser printer. If you are doing photo-lithography (the photo
>> transfer method) I would strongly recommend getting a pdf of the mask
>> printed off by them for a buck or two. Typically home printed
>> transparencies have to be doubled up for additional opacity, whereas
>> theirs did not.
>>
>> I found this to be a real advantage because it's very difficult to
>> align multiple sheets, the plastic when its printed on seems to warp
>> a little bit as its heated by the printer, causing the same image
>> printed twice even on the same sheet not to be exactly the same
>> dimensions. Also I typically under-exposed my boards in fear of small
>> (8-10mil) traces would get washed out. The amount of time in the
>> developer goes down significantly if the board is exposed a bit
>> longer than the absolute minimum needed to get the pattern in the
>> photo resist.
>>
>> Just my 2 cents.
>>
>> Jason White.
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 6:21 AM, Richard Bown <richard AT g8jvm DOT com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi,
>> > On the 8th attempt I now have a board ready to print on to a
>> > transparency.
>> >
>> > When printing is there any way of NOT printing the header sheet with
>> > the list of whats there ?
>> > I found I can deselect the top of the board OK, just want to print
>> > the bottom only.
>> >
>> > It would be nice if some how I could add to the printing menu the
>> > size 6X4", or a wee bit bigger, as I'm using a printer with a tray
>> > for photo paper as well.
>> > So I could pre-cut the film to 6x4" and load it from the top tray ,
>> >
>> > I see A, B, C & D sizes but not sure what they are, and I'm not
>> > sure on US paper sizes, sri.
>> > The paper guide on the printer tray will open out to 4.5" , so a
>> > little tolerance of size.
>> >
>> > many thanks
>>
>
> Hi Jason
>
> Yes I'm a cheap skate :)
> I use the transparency film which has a dull side and print on that, as
> long as you print at a high enough density , you dont need to use two
> layers.
> I was using an Epson R285 for printing but strangely as it got older ,
> the head alignment got worse, so now a HP6520.
> This has two trays, one for 6x4" photo paper, it will go a bit bigger,
> but not much.
> Exporting as postscript B6 its close, but not close enough, I have a
> 0.5" margin to the left and the RHS gets chopped by 0.25".
>
> I'll try with 5x7" settings which should do it, but that printer is TOO
> intelligent, it argues..
> I'll be happy if I can find a method that allows a part sheet of film to
> be loaded, the disadvantage to a full A4 sheet being used several times
> is it will pick up any dirt , or worse ink spillages.
> Just printing on a sheet once, and not using the spare space for
> another print reduces the odds against this happening.
>
>
> --
> --
> Best wishes /73
> Richard Bown
> Email : richard AT g8jvm DOT com
> HTTP : http://www.g8jvm.com
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--
Jason White
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