Mail Archives: geda-user/2014/04/02/08:59:01
On Wed, 2 Apr 2014 08:07:24 -0400
Jason White <whitewaterssoftwareinfo AT gmail DOT com> wrote:
> Building your own boards, ay?
>
> I know this isn't directly related to your question but I always
> exported a 1000 dpi monochrome PNG file for each layer and loaded it
> into GIMP or another photo manipulation program. From there I could
> panelize my design (tile it), add descriptive headers such as "THIS
> SIDE UP" and print it with a supposed .001" accuracy. At 1000dip the
> resolution of the image in pixels correlated directly to how many
> thousands of an inch wide it was supposed to be, simplifying the task
> of recognizing how big or small a design really was.
>
> One thing I found was that the large commercial printers such as the
> ones Staples or OfficMax typically have, print *far* superior masks
> (transparency slides) than anything I could achieve at home with a
> consumer laser printer. If you are doing photo-lithography (the photo
> transfer method) I would strongly recommend getting a pdf of the mask
> printed off by them for a buck or two. Typically home printed
> transparencies have to be doubled up for additional opacity, whereas
> theirs did not.
>
> I found this to be a real advantage because it's very difficult to
> align multiple sheets, the plastic when its printed on seems to warp
> a little bit as its heated by the printer, causing the same image
> printed twice even on the same sheet not to be exactly the same
> dimensions. Also I typically under-exposed my boards in fear of small
> (8-10mil) traces would get washed out. The amount of time in the
> developer goes down significantly if the board is exposed a bit
> longer than the absolute minimum needed to get the pattern in the
> photo resist.
>
> Just my 2 cents.
>
> Jason White.
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 6:21 AM, Richard Bown <richard AT g8jvm DOT com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > On the 8th attempt I now have a board ready to print on to a
> > transparency.
> >
> > When printing is there any way of NOT printing the header sheet with
> > the list of whats there ?
> > I found I can deselect the top of the board OK, just want to print
> > the bottom only.
> >
> > It would be nice if some how I could add to the printing menu the
> > size 6X4", or a wee bit bigger, as I'm using a printer with a tray
> > for photo paper as well.
> > So I could pre-cut the film to 6x4" and load it from the top tray ,
> >
> > I see A, B, C & D sizes but not sure what they are, and I'm not
> > sure on US paper sizes, sri.
> > The paper guide on the printer tray will open out to 4.5" , so a
> > little tolerance of size.
> >
> > many thanks
>
Hi Jason
Yes I'm a cheap skate :)
I use the transparency film which has a dull side and print on that, as
long as you print at a high enough density , you dont need to use two
layers.
I was using an Epson R285 for printing but strangely as it got older ,
the head alignment got worse, so now a HP6520.
This has two trays, one for 6x4" photo paper, it will go a bit bigger,
but not much.
Exporting as postscript B6 its close, but not close enough, I have a
0.5" margin to the left and the RHS gets chopped by 0.25".
I'll try with 5x7" settings which should do it, but that printer is TOO
intelligent, it argues..
I'll be happy if I can find a method that allows a part sheet of film to
be loaded, the disadvantage to a full A4 sheet being used several times
is it will pick up any dirt , or worse ink spillages.
Just printing on a sheet once, and not using the spare space for
another print reduces the odds against this happening.
--
--
Best wishes /73
Richard Bown
Email : richard AT g8jvm DOT com
HTTP : http://www.g8jvm.com
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