X-Authentication-Warning:	delorie.com: mail set sender to geda-user-bounces using -f
X-Recipient:	geda-user AT delorie DOT com
DomainKey-Signature:	a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=penguindevelopment.org; h=
	message-id:date:from:mime-version:to:subject:references
	:in-reply-to:content-type:content-transfer-encoding; q=dns; s=
	penguindevelopment.org; b=DgFD6+W0iynYDOhLX1O6bXcpylq1o5KmsTYs8O
	niIH7DuiYaem1IUi7klBlQB0zJYpDoAU2vcd4fMLimekLkQkUJERFyrkDmOyktlI
	HBmt1NEDQ1sS+6Xi49VagRaaS0pgVn+EQqOsQwYs3xV4/kc+WQ/LH1YgdidTsxBl
	ljxbg=
DKIM-Signature:	v=1; a=rsa-sha1; c=relaxed; d=penguindevelopment.org; h=
	message-id:date:from:mime-version:to:subject:references
	:in-reply-to:content-type:content-transfer-encoding; s=
	penguindevelopment.org; bh=eOACKw+DHKM5tVRAO5Ays5ZnShM=; b=KJJFg
	ctN5lVouTNvglPropsTAXVEhdsnziC5J8907ckrGjw9CX7BnKjHEb2mXtYAUQIki
	SMnDoDc86K6CoAy4nFaJTHHeHsPfbTElmI7m80D9TvAW8CCti0qlcvKugfQJdlwT
	LfThtM/tIuyxCfZX93SnWz8p2Zon2t8t7Y2LFc=
Message-ID:	<4EFAD95C.3040702@penguindevelopment.org>
Date:	Wed, 28 Dec 2011 09:54:52 +0100
From:	Link <link AT penguindevelopment DOT org>
User-Agent:	Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:8.0) Gecko/20111202 Thunderbird/8.0
MIME-Version:	1.0
To:	geda-user AT delorie DOT com
Subject:	Re: [geda-user] pcb slots
References:	<4EFA7708 DOT 8090702 AT optonline DOT net> <201112280227 DOT pBS2R5qp024574 AT envy DOT delorie DOT com> <4EFA8435 DOT 5090303 AT optonline DOT net> <201112280256 DOT pBS2uUdE025473 AT envy DOT delorie DOT com> <4EFA8816 DOT 5050809 AT optonline DOT net>
In-Reply-To:	<4EFA8816.5050809@optonline.net>
Reply-To:	geda-user AT delorie DOT com

On 28/12/11 04:08, gene glick wrote:
>> Note that adding slots usually makes the board cost a lot more. If
>> you can, just use a large round hole instead.
>>
>
> Yep - I considered that. Problem is that the connectors are close to one
> another and the holes would bump against each other - I think - maybe
> worth a second look. The slots are like 3 mm long, and really narrow.
>
> Hey - here's a thought. Maybe bend those things up at right angle
> instead, and add a surface pad to solder it to. Or - snip the tabs off
> completely (or partially), and place some copper on the footprint along
> the edge of the connector. Then lay a bead of solder along the edges.
> The tabs are for mechanical support - I am reluctant to go without them.
If you're willing to go with kludges like that, another way might be to 
place some holes as close to one another as the board house will accept, 
in a sort of perforation line (so there's just a small sliver of board 
between each pair of holes), and then chisel that line into a slot 
yourself with a small flat-headed jewellers' screwdriver.

In any case, it's probably a good idea to figure out whether your board 
house can cut slots cheaply first. If not, they might still accept 
overlapping holes (but don't count on it), and otherwise, you can try 
the perforation method - if their minimum hole spacing isn't too large, 
anyway.

Of course, Peter Stuge has a point in that it may be better to go with a 
different part if that's at all possible. Personally I'd rather go with 
a slightly more expensive part if it meant not having to use kludges 
like bending or cutting tabs or chiselling up my board.

- Raw text -